2010 Langhe Rosso Larigi

Greyish crimson. Stewed fruit. Sweaty. Stewed on the palate too though there's some unexpected tangy freshness on the aftertaste. Or is the sample just a little oxidised? (JH)

The 2010 Langhe Larigi is made with fruit from 65-year-old Barbera vines. Inky dark in appearance, it presents a deeply fruit-driven bouquet with blackberry, plum and sweet cherry. It feels lovely in the mouth with rich density and a velvety texture. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Elio Altare is never a man to mince words. He tells the rags-to-riches story of Barolo with conviction, passion and firsthand knowledge. La Morra went from having a handful of farmers (five or six) back in the early 1970s to dozens of estates today. Back then, grape growers were considered so low in social rank, many could not find local women to marry. They imported wives from poorer regions of southern Italy, like Calabria and Basilicata, to live in the Langhe. “C’era la fame qui,” he says. (“We were starving.”) From his panoramic porch overlooking the Frazione Annunziata section of La Morra, he sighs, “Just look at us now.” He tells the story of his first trip to France: “It blew my mind that producers in Burgundy were buying Porsches and yachts with just a few hectares of vine while we were dirt poor.” Highly influenced by that trip (his use of French barrique for aging Nebbiolo is a prime example), Altare returned to Italy and vowed to shake things up. He most certainly did. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Altare's 2010 Langhe Larigi (Barbera) stands out for its exceptional textural finesse and elegance. Small red berries, flowers and mint are all woven together beautifully in the glass. The 2010 was aged in 100% new barrels, but there is absolutely not a hint of oak, and the fruit is incredibly pure and vivid. The 2010 isn't one of the biggest Larigis to emerge from this cellar, but it is certainly one of the most polished. Altare elevates Barbera to an entirely new level with a fabulous Larigi that bears more than a passing resemblance to the Burgundies that are so adored at this small, family-run domaine.