2011 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is very much in the classic style of the domaine, opening in the glass with a bouquet of lemon zest, pear, white flowers, sesame and a generous framing of oak vanillin. On the palate, the wine is medium-full, saline and edgy, with taut acids, a vertical mid-palate and a searing, stony finish. Though this did fill out with several hours in the glass, it isn’t the most ample or ripe rendition of this bottling; but I’d describe it as lithe rather than lean, and I fully expect it to improve for a decade or more.

Subtly complex, aristocratic aromas of lemon and pure crushed stone. Wonderfully intense and taut, with great mineral depth giving the wine a powerful impression of force. Finishes with explosive energy, an essence of crushed stone and outstanding lingering perfume. It's virtually impossible to spit this unflagging, tactile wine: the minerality here is almost frightening. The best of these 2011s today, without question, and a wine that transcends its vintage.

Quite low key on the nose but very tense on the palate. A bit suppressed for the moment; all texture rather than flavour with a lot to chew on. (JR)