2005 Monthelie Les Duresses

I tasted a sample from the newer barrels used which was oakier than the final blend will be but juicy bitter cherry flavours were well in evidence. A pretty wine with impressive length, though not for those seeking a fruit bomb. (JR)

A portion of Lafon’s 2005 Monthelie Les Duresses spent time in tank on the ground floor of the winery to encourage malo-lactic fermentation, and was afterward returned to barrel. This offers bright aromas and flavors of black raspberry sorbet, brown spice and fungal complexities and a fine sense of chalkiness, all of this rather reminiscent of Volnay. The tannins are abundant but fine. A tart fruit skin edge and faintly bitter black chocolate character in the finish offer satisfying counterpoint with the wine’s fresh fruit. I would plan on enjoying this beauty at 5-7 years age. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040

(racked recently; this is 13% natural alcohol, rare for this parcel) Good bright red-ruby. Aromas of black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Juicy, firm and strong, with unusual density for Monthelie. Lovely black fruit and spicy oak flavors linger impressively. This is oakier than the finished wine will be, Lafon promised: I tasted samples from barrels that had finished their malos, which in most cases meant new oak.