1985 Yquem

The 1985 Yquem has come my way a few times in recent years, but sadly, it never really impresses. The aromatics come across as one-dimensional compared to others: barley sugar and mandarin, later dried honey. It never really takes off. The palate is balanced yet more bitter than I recall, the finish rather disjointed and with a bit of VA. Drink now. Tasted at the château.

The 1985 Yquem—the third time I have encountered this vintage—has a rather one-dimensional bouquet that is missing botrytis. It has rather enervated scents of dried honey, almond and orange pith on the nose. The palate is well balanced, but there is a nagging dryness at its core and an "ossified heart," which means the finish feels disjointed. Not bad for the vintage, but of course, there were far better Yquem from this period. Tasted at the Yquem vertical at the château.

The 1985 Yquem suffered by there being just a single day of rain between 15 September and 1 November, precluding botrytis formation. Nevertheless, picking started on 5 October and unexpectedly some botrytis did appear. The nose is clean but simple for this estate, dried honey and hazelnut, almond and a subtle petrol-like aroma. The palate is balanced but again, quite straightforward with tangy marmalade and barley sugar notes, drying a little towards the finish. Modest amounts of pleasure to be had here, though it's a bit of a joke without a punchline. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux (not Yquem).