1908 Yquem

The 1908 Yquem is an ancient vintage that I had never tasted before. Assiduously poured at the beginning of dinner instead of the end, this is clear with a deep amber hue commensurate with its age. The nose is intriguing, featuring rosehip, tangerine, freshly picked strawberry aromas and a touch of menthol that emerges with time. There is a sense of refinement on the nose that translates across onto the palate built around a keen spine of acidity. The 1908 is a lighter style of Yquem with tinges of orange rind and marmalade, then tapers toward the finish. This is a delightful century-plus Sauternes that is comfortable in its dotage, trotting along nicely and not at all elegiac. Tasted at "Koala's" Bordeaux dinner in Hong Kong.