2006 d'Armailhac

A clear evolution in construction, helped by the arrival of Petit Verdot into the blend. The tannic construction of a young Pauillac that has not fully relaxed into itself gives an edge of austerity, but is delivering all the mint leaf, graphite, and the salted cracker that gives great confidence in its future ageing direction, along with softely spoken blackberry and raspberry fruit. Classically balanced and concentrated, and we are begininng to reach into the modern era. Philippe Dhalluin director, as he had joined Mouton in 2004, with Jean-Paul Voelert technical director at both Armailhac and Clerc Milon. 30% new oak.

This is shows lovely ripeness and roundness with pretty fruit and a rather creamy texture. Lead pencil and blackcurrants. Subtle yet flavorful finish. Touch of dryness at the end. Drink or hold.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London.The 2006 Château d'Armailhac has a feisty bouquet with tobacco and sage-infused red berry fruit that seem open for business, unlike some of the other 2006 Pauillac wines. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite supple tannin. There is good weight in the mouth with mint-infused blackberry fruit, fine structure with admirable precision on the finish. All it lacks is the persistence of some of its peers, yet it still constitutes a very fine Pauillac that I probably under-rated out of barrel. Tasted January 2016.