1990 Barolo Rocche dell Annunziata

Enrico Scavino's 1990 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata (magnum), here in its first vintage, is another of the wines of the night. It boasts extraordinary intensity and vibrancy, not to mention remarkable polish.

Scavino's 1990 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata (magnum), here in its first vintage, is gorgeous as sweet, perfumed fruit emerges from its silky-textured frame. Deceptively medium in body, the wine blossoms on the palate with plenty of punch, although it remains decidedly feminine next to the masculine 1990 Bric del Fiasc. Sweet autumn leaves, spices and roses add further complexity and delineation to this finely sculpted, articulate Barolo. The fruit is still remarkably primary, in part owing to the bottle size, but everything is simply in the right place here.

Scavino’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata (magnum), here in its first vintage, is gorgeous as sweet, perfumed fruit emerges from its silky-textured frame. Deceptively medium in body, the wine blossoms on the palate with plenty of punch, although it remains decidedly feminine next to the masculine 1990 Bric del Fiasc. Sweet autumn leaves, spices and roses add further complexity and delineation to this finely sculpted, articulate Barolo. The fruit is still remarkably primary, in part owing to the bottle size, but everything is simply in the right place here. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. The 1989 and 1990 vintages find Enrico Scavino at a fascinating intersection between traditional and modern styles. Fermentations and macerations lasted roughly 12-14 days, while pumpovers and punchdowns were still performed manually. The malolactic fermentations were done mostly in small French oak barrels. The wines were aged first in French oak and then in larger casks, an approach similar to the one Scavino employs today. What comes through most in these wines is a decided commitment to low yields which is seen in the sheer concentration and depth of fruit.