1999 Ghiaie della Furba

The 1999 Ghiaie della Furba shows its maturity through a dusty, almost musky bouquet. Time in the glass adds freshness as cedary spice comes together with hints of rosemary, black pepper, crushed stone and dried berries. It’s lively on the palate, with brisk acidity driving a wave of tart red fruits and inner herbal notes across a tactile core of saline minerals. Inner earth tones combine with a tinge of sour citrus and balsamic spice as the 1999 shows its tannic clout. Still almost adolescent in feel, this finishes with admirable length and staining concentration. There’s still plenty of life here, and while the bouquet initially gave me pause, time in the glass revealed its hidden charms.