2008 Romanee St Vivant

The 2008 Romanee St. Vivant is pure seduction. The aromatics alone are breathtaking, but the RSV is truly firing on all cylinders. Curiously, today the RSV is quite a bit rounder and suppler than the Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux. It shows remarkable silkiness, inner perfume and nobility. A seamless finish rounds things out in style. My instincts tell me this will firm up in bottle, but frankly I am a bit mystified that hasn’t happened yet. Today, this doesn’t look like a super long-term ager within the context of the domaine’s very finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. tasted the 2008s in bottle in late June 2011 after having gone through the 2010s from barrel. Aubert de Villaine describes 2008 as a difficult vintage with a lot of rain. Botrytis was an issue and the vineyards required constant attention. On September 14 the weather changed dramatically. A steady north wind dried out the grapes and concentrated sugars quickly, which also reduced the size of the berries. A further selection of fruit lowered yields to an even greater extent, resulting in overall production that is as much as 50% lower than normal for the Domaine. As for the wines, they are magnificent in my view, but will require considerable patience. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Good medium red. Captivating nose combines red and darker berries, smoky earth, cocoa powder, violet and sandalwood, displaying an element of lift currently missing in the Grands-Echezeaux. sweet, silky and concentrated on the suave, saline palate; consistent from start to finish. Really spreads out to dust every square millimeter of the mouth. Finishes very long and subtle, with a compelling spicy perfume. A superb showing.