1985 Romanee St Vivant

Whereas the 1985 Échézeaux is a floral, lifted wine, the 1985 Romanée St. Vivant presents a much deeper, muscular expression of fruit, with fewer floral/savory notes and tons of sheer power. There is plenty of intensity in the glass. At the same time, though, the 1985 possesses elements of rusticity that are impossible to miss. Overall, the 1985 is a fairly burly St. Vivant with less polish and finesse than is common today, but it should drink well for years to come.

The Romanee St.-Vivant is tannic, with the telltale iron-like scent, cinnamon, and gout de terroir that, for me, make it the most unique wine of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti stable. It is quite tannic and needs cellaring until 1993-1994. This fabled estate has had a brilliant track record since 1978. Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine seem to have everything tightly within their grasps, so it is unlikely that some of the lapses in quality control that occurred previously will resurface. I am sure they still cannot understand why their estate is so frequently singled out for malicious attacks, but no one should have any trouble appreciating the domaine's 1985s, which are their best wines in decades, even surpassing their sensational 1978s. The problem is coming up with the cash to finance them. The wines, aged in 100% new oak, are never filtered.