2006 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes

The Leroy 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes smells mouth-wateringly of fresh fraise du bois, kirsch, lilies, and a whiff of wood smoke. Tiny-berried concentration of red fruits; a tender, silken texture; and a sensation of lift and wafting delicacy put this in a category of its own, much as the 2005 rendition distinguished itself by being far and away the most refreshing and precisely-delineated in flavors of its collection. There is a shimmering interchange of fruit, flowers, and subtly saline mineral and carnal savor here that will keep you transfixed, your tongue trembling, and your salivary glands out of control. Here is a wine that epitomizes the classic conception of Chambolle as a wine of elegance and finesse, as well as epitomizing the potential of the 2006 vintage. The results achieved by Lalou Bize-Leroy in 2006 are all the more notable in view of the misgivings she expressed early on about this vintage. (And, as her reaction to 2004 demonstrates, she will not shy away from declassifying even her entire production if she feels that the wines are not up to their terroir pedigrees.) As voluptuously rich as are Bize-Leroy's 2006 reds, they preserve the sense of buoyancy and elegance common to so many of the standouts of this vintage, and one's gums will not come away fatigued by the strength of underlying tannin or the near-hyper-concentration displayed by her – to be sure awesome – 2005s. As every year, these wines represent meticulous vine manicure; miniscule yields ("above all regulated by severe pruning, not triage," Bize-Leroy emphasizes); and fidelity to biodynamic methods and metaphysics; and were bottled in the second December following the harvest. Despite their winsomeness, they have long life expectancies. Since, however, I have very little experience of their predecessors as they have matured, I have confined my prognostication to a few isolated and very general comments in the tasting notes that follow. Note that I have included as well under the heading "Leroy" the wines of Madame Bize-Leroy's Domaine d'Auvenay – its cellars located outside Saint-Romain – which now encompass two appellations in red, since inevitably when information is being sought about these wines, and even often when they are described, it is under the name "Leroy." Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040