1952 Lafite Rothschild

Magnum. Another wine to celebrate Roy's birth year, one that produced some very fine claret, of which this was one. Brownish ruby. Light and very fresh and brisk on the nose. There was, as expected, a fairly but not disastrously notable dose of acidity. Very clean and racy. Essence of Lafite? Perhaps it would have seemed more substantial if not served with Le Pin 1994? (The three red bordeaux were served together with loin of venison, smoked potato purée, whey-cooked carrots. trompettes and chestnuts.) Extremely fresh and perky, like our host. (JR)

The 1952 Lafite Rothschild, the second time I have tasted it, is actually similar to the first one encountered in the same restaurant. There are light red fruit tones, scents of leather-bound books and a touch of Band-Aid here. It’s simple but definable as a Lafite. The palate is armed with a sweet core of fruit that’s a little soft with a touch of aniseed. This is elegant on the finish that just lacks a bit of structure and grip. On reflection, maybe the previous bottle was better last year. Tasted at Ami restaurant in Hong Kong.