2012 Duhart Milon Rothschild

The 2012 Duhart-Milon has a ripe, mulberry, leather and burnt toast-tinged nose, a little smudged and lacking some freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, baked red fruit infused with leather and sage, dried blood and meat juice towards the finish that has a distinct animally quality. A second bottle at Bordeaux Index's tasting was more cohesive with a pleasing rondeur, yet there is that feral aspect that is enjoyable, but maybe detracts from its breeding. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.

Showing well at 10 years old. Liquorice root, cassis, bilberry, leather, cigar box, tar, cloves and turmeric spices. Fairly serious in character, as is often the case with Duhart, this feels like old school Pauillac and has its charm as a result.

Tasted blind. Looks quite evolved at the rim. Somewhat mature nose with – even – a suggestion of cheesiness! Savoury and rather interesting with polished tannins. (JR)