2006 Beaune Clos des Mouches Vieilles Vignes

A 2006 Beaune Clos des Mouches Vieilles Vignes displays aromas of ripe cassis and dark cherry shadowed by their spirituous counterparts. Distilled violet and gentian essences also waft from the glass, along with vanilla and nutmeg from Laurent's beloved, signature, and indeed generally highly-flattering barrels. (As it happens, Laurent says this wine took especially long to come to amicable terms with its new wood.) Rich fruit floods a tannin-rich yet fine-grained palate of palpably old vines density, all quite transparent to underlying crushed stone, saline savor, peat, and smoked meat, putting one in mind of this cru's proximity to Pommard. Finishing with enticing succulence and thought-provoking complexity, here is a superb rendition of this well-known site that should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808