2004 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia, from a small old-vine parcel on the estate, floats onto the palate with endless layers of perfumed fruit. Deceptively medium in body, the Ugolaia possesses remarkable depth. Sweet pine, menthol, red cherries and spices meld together seamlessly on the long finish. With time in the glass, the wine gains more volume as the fruit emerges and bouquet becomes even more expansive. This is a gorgeous Brunello from Lisini.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia, from a small old-vine parcel on the estate, floats onto the palate with endless layers of perfumed fruit. Deceptively medium in body, the Ugolaia possesses remarkable depth. Sweet pine, menthol, red cherries and spices meld together seamlessly on the long finish. With time in the glass, the wine gains more volume as the fruit emerges and the bouquet becomes even more expansive. This is a gorgeous Brunello from Lisini. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Lisini is one of the historic properties in Montalcino. Family matriarch Elina Lisini served as President of the producers’ Consorzio in its early days back in the 1960s and remained a fixture of Montalcino until her passing last year. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Deep, almost impenetrable ruby with a tiny rim beginning to lighten up. Dark brooding fruit with hint of moroccan leather. Herb liqueur hint. Well balanced palate, fruit keeps on opening up into the finish. Classy with potential. (WS)