Dagli inizi nel Beaujolais negli anni ’80, il movimento del vino naturale è diventato un fenomeno globale. Ma quale influenza ha avuto poco più a nord, nelle storiche denominazioni della Borgogna? Simon J Woolf esplora il confine sempre più sfumato tra viticoltura classica e naturale

From Beaujolais to Burgundy, how has the natural wine movement shaped a terroir-driven region? For FONDATA Simon J Woolf explores the changing landscape.

Natural Wine’s Influence on Burgundy

Natura vs. Intervento: la ricerca della vera identità della Borgogna

Situata nel cuore della Côte d’Or, la collina di Corton domina il paesaggio, ma i suoi vini, soprattutto i bianchi, sono spesso sottovalutati. Abbiamo incontrato i principali produttori della zona per esplorarne il pedigree e il potenziale, tra vini potenti e di grande longevità.

Discover the pedigree and potential of the hill of Corton’s whites – the fine Chardonnay from Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne and Corton Blanc 

Exploring Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne and Corton Blanc 

Corton-Charlemagne: il Grand Cru del futuro?

Per Marelise Niemann, il richiamo del vino risiede proprio in ciò che potrebbe frustrare i viticoltori meno intuitivi. “Non sei mai in controllo: sei sempre messo al tuo posto,” dice – dal meteo, dai babbuini che mangiano l’uva, dalla natura. Per quanto possa essere umiliante, Niemann ha fatto del Grenache la sua missione – creando le espressioni più fini ed eleganti di quest’uva in Sudafrica, sotto la sua etichetta Momento. 
 Non sorprende, dato lo stile dei suoi vini, che sia stata un’annata in Borgogna a rappresentare per lei l’illuminazione. All’epoca, alla fine degli anni 2000, il Sudafrica era ancora concentrato sulla produzione di vini potenti: i rossi corposi, estratti e molto legnosi erano considerati i migliori. L’influenza di Parker era ancora palpabile, e il Paese stava ancora riprendendosi dall’apartheid e dal soffocante monopolio della KWV. Ma un periodo trascorso a lavorare con il Pinot Noir fece comprendere a Niemann il potere sorprendente e talvolta incongruo della delicatezza – in breve, che più grande non significa sempre migliore. 
 E non era la sola a percorrere quella strada. Il movimento della New Wave sudafricana stava prendendo slancio. Guidati da figure come Eben Sadie, Adi Badenhorst e Chris e Andrea Mullineux, questi produttori stavano creando vini freschi e raffinati, reinventando l’identità vinicola del Paese. Quello che era iniziato nello Swartland si diffuse presto in tutta la nazione, e Niemann faceva parte di questa ondata di rinnovamento. Fu l’agricoltura a spingerla verso il vino, dopo aver trascorso l’infanzia nella fattoria dei nonni a Stanford, un piccolo villaggio nell’Overberg, svegliandosi all’alba per mungere le mucche o fare qualsiasi altra cosa fosse necessaria. Anche se i suoi genitori avevano abbandonato l’agricoltura, lei desiderava lavorare la terra. Crescendo a Elgin, una zona dominata dalle mele ma con un’industria vinicola nascente, decise di studiare viticoltura. Le lunghe nottate universitarie a Stellenbosch, accompagnate da molte bottiglie, la convinsero che coltivare l’uva non fosse abbastanza, e così ampliò il suo percorso di studi includendo l’enologia. 
 Dopo aver viaggiato per il mondo e fatto vendemmie nel Rodano e in California, ottenne un lavoro accanto a Sebastian Beaumont – che aveva appena preso in mano la tenuta di famiglia, Beaumont Family Wines. Fu lì, spiega, che poté “disimparare” tutto ciò che aveva letto nei libri. Durante quel periodo, continuò a viaggiare e a lavorare alle vendemmie nell’emisfero nord – inclusa la già citata esperienza in Borgogna. 
 Sebbene il Pinot Noir fosse la sua ispirazione, ciò che cercava davvero era la freschezza e la vivacità, più che il vitigno stesso – ben consapevole che gran parte del Sudafrica è semplicemente troppo calda e secca per il Pinot. Un viaggio a Terroir al Limit (il progetto nel Priorat fondato da Dominik Huber ed Eben Sadie nel 2001) nel 2010 fu determinante. Si innamorò all’istante delle splendide vecchie viti di Garnacha della regione e degli stili più leggeri che Huber e Sadie stavano producendo. 
 Tornò subito e cercò una parcella di Grenache nel Capo Occidentale. Comprò due tonnellate d’uva da un vigneto di 50 anni nello Swartland insieme a Donovan Rall (di Rall Wines); lui raccolse i grappoli e li trasportò a Stellenbosch, dove li nascosero clandestinamente in una cella frigorifera universitaria grazie a un amico, e poi lei li portò a Beaumont. La vinificazione fu minimale, in parte perché era impegnata con i vini di Beaumont e non aveva attrezzature, ma anche perché volle seguire ciò che il vigneto offriva naturalmente, puntando su uno stile più leggero e profumato. Nacque così la prima annata di Momento Grenache. Era il 2011, e prima ancora che avesse deciso un nome o pensato all’etichetta per le bottiglie, il vino venne scelto per la famosa degustazione Young Guns. (Suo marito – artista – disegnò la vite che si vede oggi sull’etichetta, con volti nel tronco, perché per Niemann il vino non è solo un fatto tecnico, ma riguarda le persone – sia quelle che lo producono sia quelle che lo bevono.)
  Un decennio dopo, Momento si è guadagnato una notevole reputazione. Niemann è stata nominata Young Winemaker of the Year da Tim Atkin MW nel suo South Africa Report 2023, e i critici lodano i suoi vini, definendola una “sussurratrice di Grenache” (come l’ha chiamata Malu Lambert su Decanter). Sebbene Niemann produca anche un blend di Chenin Blanc/Verdelho e un Tinta Barocca, il cuore della gamma Momento è il Grenache – con versioni di Grenache Gris e Blanc, oltre a diverse etichette di Grenache Noir. Non sorprende, dato lo stile fine, fragrante e fresco dei suoi vini, che le sue ispirazioni siano Rayas (ovviamente), ma anche i vini della Sierra de Gredos (come Comando G) e le versioni più fini e moderne provenienti dall’Australia – come Yangarra o S.C. Pannell. Con l’annata 2022, ha introdotto tre nuove espressioni single-site di Grenache Noir, aggiungendo un’imbottigliatura da scisti di Botrivier, una da arenarie di Piekenierskloof e una da scisti di Riebeekberg, accanto al suo vino del Paardeberg (in precedenza etichettato come Swartland o Western Cape, su granito). L’idea è mostrare cosa può fare il Grenache in Sudafrica, raccontando i diversi suoli ma mantenendo sempre la sua firma: vivacità e delicatezza. 
 Per Niemann, il Grenache e le altre varietà con cui lavora non sono scelte casuali, ma vitigni sostenibili per il clima sudafricano. Quasi tutti i vigneti con cui collabora sono dry-farmed (ce n’è solo uno che sta gradualmente disabituando all’irrigazione). Ricorda la siccità del 2015-2018, con la minaccia del “Day Zero”, quando nessuno poteva irrigare le viti: rammenta come il Cabernet e il Merlot dei vigneti vicini si arresero, offrendo pochissimo raccolto, ma non fu così per il suo Grenache, che “continuò semplicemente a vivere”. Come dice lei, “Ci sarà un altro Day Zero in Sudafrica. Diventerà più caldo e più secco. Dobbiamo coltivare varietà che non abbiano bisogno di irrigazione.” Uve come Grenache, Chenin e Verdelho, insieme a Cinsault e Carignan, sono – per lei – la risposta. “È ciò che il nostro clima vuole che piantiamo,” afferma. 
 Una cosa è certa: se questo è il futuro del vino sudafricano, è incredibilmente entusiasmante. Dimenticate il Grenache ad alta gradazione e dolciastro; i vini di Niemann sono fini, freschi, strutturati, profumati e puri – vini che parlano del loro luogo d’origine. Le allocazioni delle sue cuvée single-site sono scomparse quasi istantaneamente al rilascio – e non c’è dubbio che la sua stella continuerà a brillare. Accaparratevi queste bottiglie finché potete. 
 Esplora la gamma Momento o leggi di più sul Sudafrica.

Nominata Giovane Enologa dell’Anno da Tim Atkin MW nel 2023, Marelise Niemann crea alcuni dei vini più entusiasmanti del Sudafrica. Con l’enologa di Momento abbiamo parlato del suo percorso, dell’amore per la Borgogna e del futuro del Grenache nel Capo Occidentale.

Sitting down with Marlise Niemann, the winemaker behind Momento wines in Bot River, South Africa – Tim Atkin’s Young Winemaker of the Year 2023

Redefining Grenache: Marelise Niemann’s Momento wines

Ridefinire il Grenache: Momento

Bordeaux è incredibilmente variegata, con stili di vino estremamente diversi nelle sue denominazioni. Qui, vi sveleremo tutto ciò che c'è da sapere su ciascuna delle principali sottoregioni e sulle migliori tenute di ciascuna.

Explore Bordeaux, subregions, their wines and top estates – in Saint-Estephe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux, Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Pomerol, Saint-Emilion 

Your guide to Bordeaux’s subregions, wines and top producers

La tua guida alle sottoregioni di Bordeaux

2001 Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (and lashings of Beaujolais) – chosen by Daniel Johnnes, Wine Director of The Dinex Group and Founder of La Paulée, La Fête du Champagne, La Tablée and Pressoir  “This holiday I plan on opening several bottles of great wine. Great doesn't necessarily mean expensive or rare. I'll be sure to drink plenty of Beaujolais and mostly from my favorite producers, Morgon from Marcel Lapierre, Fleurie from Jean-Louis Dutraive and Chiroubles from Domaine Thillardon. As much as they are "drink everyday" wines, they also have the magic power of putting a smile on everyone's face.  “Yet, for that really special wine, I plan on opening a bottle of Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses 2001 from Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier. Chambolle-Musigny is among my favorite villages in Burgundy and the Amoureuses vineyard could easily make a case to be classified as Grand Cru. It combines the perfume, texture, elegance and persistence typical of the very best red Burgundy. The style of Domaine Mugnier is one of refinement and grace. And with 20-plus years’ age, it should be perfect for drinking now. Even though it will accompany a roast chicken, this wine is like a celebration and a meal in and of itself.”  2018 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance – chosen by Jeffrey Koren, Head of Wine at Marceline, London  “While it’s easy to open a perfunctory bottle of Port or Sauternes at the end of a Christmas meal, the oh-so-delicious Vin de Constance by Klein Constantia has become my go-to sweet wine for the festive period over the past few years. Steeped in history, Vin de Constance was famously a favourite of Napoleon and lauded by authors like Jane Austen and Baudelaire. These days, winemaker Matt Day has revived this legendary dessert wine to its former acclaim. It always offers wonderful notes of apricot, honey and spice. But most importantly, it’s balanced by refreshing acidity that is an absolute necessity after an indulgent holiday meal.”  Hauller Frères Pinot Gris La Chappelle Signature – chosen by Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse, Ch. Beauséjour   “Ludovic Hauller is a long-standing friend I met during my studies in Burgundy. I appreciate the precision that his family channels into the wines, and this cuvée showcases great finesse, with freshness and elegance, mirroring the granite terroir in which the vines grow. It’s a Pinot Gris of remarkable complexity, hailing from a plot that sits below the Chapelle Saint-Sébastien de Dambach-la-Ville. Ludovic introduced me to Alsatian wines, which I knew little of previously, and I love this cuvée. As for when, this is definitely the kind of bottle I would open in the days following Christmas, with my family, playing board games by the fire and putting the world to rights, patiently waiting for the New Year!”  2002 Champagne Salon, Giuseppe Mascarello’s 2017 Barolo Villero, Tiberio’s 2018 Colle Vota – chosen by Lorenza Sebasti, Castello di Ama  “As usual, this Christmas we will open a magnum of 2002 Champagne Salon. I remember we had the chance to buy a few magnums a long time ago as they were precisely the birth years of our children (1997, 1999 and 2002). Then I guess I will spoil everyone at home with a beautiful Barolo Giuseppe Mascarello Villero 2017 and Colle Vota Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2018 from my dear friend Cristiana Tiberio. She makes very few bottles of this very elegant and vibrant wine, which is among my favourite reds.”  2021 La Morandina Moscato d’Asti – chosen by Donald Edwards, Head Sommelier at La Trompette, London  “Beyond the best white Burgundy I can lay my grubby mits on, I’ll be cracking the second bottle on a case of La Morandina’s 2021 Moscato d’Asti – part of a new festive tradition. Back when my wine appreciation was still protean, I heard a rumour that Moscato d’Asti – the sweet fizzy floral stuff that we sold in my Glasgow Oddbins – ages magnificently. Twenty or so years later, I’m the Head Sommelier at La Trompette, hosting a big Piedmont-themed wine lunch. Barolos and Barbarescos aplenty litter the room, but the wine that stops me in my tracks? A 2013 Moscato d’Asti from Giuseppe Vajra. It was phenomenal, still gleefully tasty, but now with a touch of extra weight, more waxy lime skin and late-evening summer flowers, heady in its bouquet. Here she was, my white whale, and, boy, she didn’t disappoint.  “Last December, visiting La Morandina in Asti, I asked whether they had anything with a bit of age and lo! a 15-year-old magnum appeared. My stars had aligned for a second time – the wine equally lovely, offering a bit more exotic spice, cardamom and coriander seed along with the sweet creamy lime zest. Crucially, this time I could see the germ of a plan. Each year, I would buy a cast of Moscato d’Asti, building a reserve of Moscato to steadily enjoy over the coming years. I’ll be the Christmas king of deliciously sweet floral fizz. So, on the morning of 25th, I’ll be twisting the top off the second bottle from last year’s case and smugly enjoying my Moscato and crumpet as I let my mind wander over the riches I’m preparing for the coming years.”  François Cotat Sancerre Le Mont Damné and Massican Gemina – chosen by Alex Sarovich, Founder and CEO of Own Rooted Hospitality  "As the oldest of five in a large Italian family, I've learned that selecting the perfect wine is an art form that requires careful consideration of both the food and the audience. When I'm hanging out with my twin 24-year-old brothers, they're all about vibrant, crisp wines like Champagne or Sancerre. If I can get my hands on it, I love surprising them with a bottle of Cotat’s Le Mont Damné, a truly exceptional wine that never fails to impress.  “In contrast, when I'm with my mom and aunt, we lean into our Italian roots. White wines from Italy are a staple in our household, especially when we're in the kitchen, cooking and preparing a meal together. This year, I'm planning to bring a bottle of Massican Gemina to our holiday gathering in McMinnville. This beautiful white blend, composed of Greco, Falanghina, and Fiano grapes from top California vineyards, perfectly captures the essence of our family's wine appreciation – a nod to our Italian heritage with a California twist.”  Coche-Dury Meursault, Domaine de Trévallon and Jean-Michel Gérin Côte-Rôtie La Landonne – chosen by Philippe Abadie of Alvina Pernot  “First of all, we decided to open a bottle of 2022 Meursault from Domaine Coche-Dury, given to us by a client to celebrate the birth of our son Pâris, who was born on January 1st 2022. We also really like the new style introduced by Raphaël since he took over this magnificent estate. Then Trévallon: my grandfather Georges from the south of France was an unconditional fan of the estate, and during my childhood there was always a bottle on festive tables (for birthdays, Christmas, New Year, etc) – so this will be a little wink to him. Then last, a bottle of Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by Jean-Michel Gérin. The story goes back to a few weeks after I first met Alvina, for this is the bottle of red we drank on our first restaurant date.”  2022 Domaine Yui A Rouge – chosen by Carlito Chiu, Wine Director at Andō, Hong Kong  “Established in 2019 by the dynamic husband-and-wife duo Tetsuya and Aya Sugiyama, Domaine Yui is a Japanese winery with a profound mission of unity and togetherness. Inspired by the meaning of the Japanese word “yui”, “to connect/link”, the Sugiyamas are dedicated to bringing people together through their shared love for wine and agriculture. Their A Rouge is a remarkable expression of Burgundy-style red wine crafted in Hokkaido, Japan – a specific blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris that showcases the region’s terroir. It is particularly special to me because it embodies the innovative spirit of Japanese winemaking, while honouring traditional techniques. For me, this wine represents the potential of Japanese terroir and the dedication of winemakers committed to producing world-class wines, making it a wonderful choice for celebrating the joy and warmth of the Christmas season.”  Read more Editorial

As friends and family gather together over Christmas, it’s the perfect time to pull the cork on something special. Here, some of the wine world’s biggest names – with leading sommeliers and top winemakers – to tell us what they’re cracking open this year, and why

Insight on what the wine world’s most famous names – sommeliers and star winemakers – are drinking over Christmas, from Salon Champagne to Vin de Constance 

What the wine world is drinking this Christmas

What those in the industry are drinking this Christmas

Olivier Humbrecht was in London earlier this year giving a masterclass on single-vineyard Pinot Gris from Alsace. His motivation and his love for dry Pinot Gris evolves around the varietal being the greatest transmitter of terroir, much more so than its more famous sibling Riesling whose natural aromatics can conceal its terroir blueprint. Of course that was just the starting point of the masterclass and it quickly evolved into a much more in-depth conversation on the virtues of singular plots and the underpinning concepts of fine wine. We caught up with him to get further insight into his pioneering approach in viticulture which is being adopted by some of the finest wine producers in the world. The changing fortunes of Pinot Gris Humbrecht is a strong believer in the potential of Pinot Gris, a varietal that has ebbed and flowed in popularity through the last century. It is a varietal that due to its rather neutral primary attributes means it is perhaps more than any other grape, at the throes of its maker.  Styles vary greatly from the high-yielding neutral, phenolic, early picked and refreshing Pinot Grigio synonymous with northern Italy. At its worst, the variety produces a wine of almost no character and no sense of place. At its best, the dry, vibrant Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige can be fantastically intense, mineral and refreshing, whilst remaining fairly neutral on the palate. Pinot Grigio Romato styles in Friuli (a skin contact rose style) offer more flavor definition and
richness whilst at the same time being distinctly phenolic with vibrant acidity and a bitter bite keeping the wine refreshing and uniquely Italian in character.  The Pinot Gris of Alsace is typically later picked and completely different to the Italian style in its flavor profile, taking on a distinct honeysuckle, musk, smoky, toasty quality. Even within Alsace, this varietal has many faces. In the 1960s Olivier reminds us that Pinot Gris from Alsace was the most popular and most expensive wine in the region, but also the rarest and typically very sweet, as it is prone to noble rot resulting in intensely rich, opulent wines. In 1990 just 2% of the vineyards in Alsace were planted with Pinot Gris, today it is up to 15%. But Pinot Gris is not an easy grape to get right and whilst the early picked, neutral style of Northern Italy can crop at high levels with little issue, to make Pinot Gris with more aromatic character is much more difficult to get right and therefore becomes a much less reliable crop and accounts for the small amounts grown in Alsace. It is a varietal very prone to rot due to its thin skin. In ideal conditions, this makes it ideal for noble rot but in less than perfect conditions grey rot is more common making the grapes not suitable for fine wine. The rot will often result in aborted fermentation.  The varietal is also very quick to ripen. If not picked in a very small picking window, the alcohols could shoot up too high making a healthy fermentation very difficult and, more often than not, leading to high levels of residual sugar in the wine, whether you want it or not. Olivier outlines that just taking a weekend off during harvest could amount to a potential 1.5% abv increase when returning to the vines on Monday morning. In under a week, the potential alcohol could have gone up by 3% abv.  Picking the wines too early also has its problems. All the flavor and aromas in the varietal develop at the final stages of ripening, picking early will produce wines with little complexity and character. This tricky little grape is no doubt the reason why so little was planted in the region despite the popularity of the top Pinot Gris sweet wines. The recent increase in plantings in Alsace however has not been brilliantly successful. For Olivier too much Pinot Gris has been planted in inadequate sites and using higher yielding commercial clones. For Olivier, top Pinot Gris from Alsace must come from the traditional petit grains clone that is naturally low-yielding. Olivier likes each vine to produce just 2 clusters producing just 25-30 hectolitres per hectare. These cropping levels are necessary to produce fine wine examples from the grape. Olivier’s interest in Pinot Gris is down to its relatively neutral character making it a great transmitter of terroir, more so than Riesling whose natural aromatic presence can conceal terroir characters. Fairly neutral flavour characters also mean it remains very much a winemaker’s wine, as the vigneron can determine the style of the wine with lees work, oak maturation, and the retention of malolactic fermentation, providing the grapes come in clean, free of rot. Olivier believes élevage on full lees makes a very important difference to the flavor of the wine. The lees nourish the wine through ageing, producing a much more complex
flavour profile. It brings a smokiness and toasty character to the wine as well as a more reductive “mineral” character. Global warming It is rare to hear a vigneron say that global warming has improved the quality of their
wines, but Olivier honestly states that, for the moment, global warming has benefited his wines. What it has done is bring flowering forward, possibly up to three weeks earlier which shunts all the growing season forward, this means the all-important veraison period (sugar concentration in the grapes) is beginning to happen three weeks earlier.  Rather than waiting for grapes to ripen in September as the days are getting shorter and the weather much less reliable, veraison is now happening at the height of the summer enabling the wines to reach optimum ripeness quicker preventing the onset of rot – which in poorer weather becomes a lot more common.  Biodynamic since 1998, Olivier has seen a really positive effect in the vineyard. The grapes are able to ripen faster, reaching physiological ripeness quicker, which enables Olivier to make dry Pinot Gris packed with flavor. This, he believes, is because chemical applications shock the vines, causing them to shut down for a number of days following the application. If you continue to spray chemical applications throughout the growing season, each time this happens the vine shuts down and you lose valuable days of ripening.  Under biodynamic principles, the vines don’t go through these shock / shutting-down
phases. This allows Olivier to pick earlier and he is the first to harvest the Pinot Gris compared to his neighbours. This he believes is largely due to his grapes ripening faster, due to his viticultural techniques.  It means he can get his wines to reach aromatic complexity whilst still being able to bring them in early enough free of rot and therefore enabling a fermentation to dryness. The reason for Olivier's interest in producing dry styles of Pinot Gris is so he can show off the terroir characteristics of each of his sites without being concealed by sweetness. Tasting the different vineyards shows just how different each of the sites is and only further promotes Pinot Gris as the ultimate transmitter of terroir. A pioneer of modern-day viticulture Speaking with top viticulturalists all over the world, you realise a huge amount of their knowledge stems from Olivier Humbrecht, whose understanding of managing vine growth originated from a university lecture he attended in the 1980s, given not by a viticulturist, but a plant physiologist.  From this lecture, Olivier understood that modern-day hedging techniques in the vineyard were really detrimental to fruit production. Olivier explains the domesticated vine goes through two very different stages in its growth period. Stage one is the phase of cellular multiplication i.e. the growth of the vine – flowering, budding, leaf production etc. Stage two is the nourishment phase in which the vine stops growing and instead starts to nourish the pips in the grapes, to promote future cellular growth when the seeds are dispersed.  The problem with modern hedging techniques is that it disturbs stage one when the vine is
on the verge of moving to stage two, therefore encouraging the vine to carry out stage one and two at the same time, meaning the grape isn’t getting full nourishment at the period of veraison as some of the vine’s energy is going into vine growth. The key for Olivier is to get stage two to follow on from stage one rather than the vines trying to do both at the same time. Preventing canopy growth, however, requires a lot more manual work. Olivier states it
requires 20 men to tie up the vines manually compared to one tractor hedging the vines. One possible solution could be to hedge the vines earlier in the growth phase so as not to disrupt the vine later in the season switching from stage 1 to stage 2 but Olivier explains this is not a good approach. Tartaric acid is key to any white wine, and it is the necessary backbone to any wine.  Tartaric acid is produced by the leaves. Olivier emphasizes that many people wrongly
think leaves only create sugar through photosynthesis, but they are necessary for producing a whole array of essential nutrients, hormones and the all-important production of tartaric acid. The secret lies in extended canopy growth. I said to Olivier this sounds exactly what Lalou
Bize Leroy does in Burgundy and he admits that he visited her years ago and told her his ideas on canopy management and she clearly took his advice. Whilst it is incredibly high maintenance and an expensive operation, two of the world’s leading winemakers Humbrecht and Leroy are advocates of the system and that should be enough for any vigneron to at least consider the technique, despite the additional costs it entails.  The single vineyards Rotenburg The Rotenburg vineyard is a cooler north-facing slope facing the Vogues mountains. Made up of red marl on a limestone bedrock with very shallow brick colour soil (containing high iron content). All this amounts to slower ripening, naturally lower vigour and tiny yields. Olivier typically crops at 25 hectolitres per hectare. Olivier states what is great about this vineyard when made in the dry style, the effect of the limestone really comes through on the palate. Tasting through the 2017, ’16 and ’13 the wines share a wonderful aromatic complexity.
Easily the most floral and perfumed of the three vineyards. There is a wonderful chalky minerality to the wine, almost top quality Chablis but with a softer texture and more perfumed. With age, the aromas and flavours only further develop whilst retaining a wonderful intensity. The wine remains very clean despite its age, showing very little tertiary
development just lovely orange rind and honeysuckle notes. The chalky limestone
minerality brings sharp focus and intensity to the finish. Clos Windsbuhl The first vintage for Zind Humbrecht on this site was the 1988 vintage. Another limestone/
clay site overlooking the church of Sainte Hune (famous for the Trimbach’s Clos Sainte Hune cuvee). Facing south, south-east with a steep slope between 15 – 40% this is a high altitude site at 350 metres. A 6.5 hectares site planted mostly to Pinot Gris. Due to the
altitude and soil the grapes ripens very slowly, often on the precipice of reaching ripeness before the wine gets affected by noble rot.  Tasting through the ’17, ’16 and ’13 what is immediate in the comparison is how the wine
develops with age. At just three years of age, the wine remains compact, at seven years of age it is incredibly complex on the palate. The primary notes have retained their zesty vivacity but the flavours become broad from russet apple, manuka honey and sultanas and a wonderful salinity and stony minerality on the finish. The wine becomes more and more focused on the finish. Clearly, the wine is affected by vintage too. The ’16 is a more difficult vintage making the wine a lot less intense than the ’17 and the ’13 but throughout the lineup, the salinity and stony minerality comes through on the palate – a distinct characteristic
of the limestone soil. Rangen de Thann Unlike Rotenburg and Clos Windsbuhl, Rangen de Thann is made up of volcanic soil, very
dark basalt rock, rich in magnesium and potassium and low in calcium so lower acidity, higher pH. The slope is the steepest in Alsace with a 41-degree slope. The vineyard has an incredibly high vine density at 10,000 vines per hectare. It is in fact one of the warmer regions of Alsace therefore you would expect it to be one of the first to ripen, but the cold wind that flows through the valley slows the ripening making it the last vineyard Oliver harvests. This is typically the lowest-yielding site at Zind Humbrecht at 20 – 30 hectolitres per hectare. The volcanic soil offers a completely different blueprint to the wine. Texturally the wine is much more oily and rich. The flavours are more pumice stone, peppery, matcha tea and then this distinct Brazil nut flavor. There are no tropical notes at all in its youth and very much more savoury in style. With age the ’13 vintage shows more tropical notes, the texture becomes unctuous in its oiliness, it feels like there is sweetness despite being a dry wine. These wines lack the vibrancy from the limestone but offer more richness, texture and darker fruit and savoury flavour profile. Explore more Editorial

Meeting with Olivier Humbrecht is always an insightful experience. Not only is he incredibly
erudite in his approach to viticulture and winemaking but he has the rare talent of being able to communicate fairly complex ideas around the subject in a very clear and digestible manner. 

An insight into Olivier Humbrecht's pioneering biodynamic approach to viticulture that is now widely adopted by many of the world's fine wine producers 

Olivier Humbrecht, a genius of wine

Olivier Humbrecht: A genius of wine

The Grand Cru wines of Alsace and in particular the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are some of the most transparent and detailed aromatic whites out there. The wines from the single-vineyard sites in particular have all the breeding to be some the most complex white wines in the world. The wines are barrel-fermented in the old traditional oak foudres using only natural yeasts, typically taking a staggering 12 to 15 months to ferment.  As a comparison, most white wine takes just two to three weeks to ferment. The reason for the long ferments is to do with the high acidity levels in the wines, pushing them right through malolactic fermentation, and Olivier’s insistence on only using natural yeasts during fermentation. He wants to ferment his wines to dryness and with grapes such as Riesling and Pinot Gris from Alsace, this means a long wait. The wines are then aged on their lees and bottled, unfined and filtered, directly from the original cask 18 months after harvest.  Tasting the single-vineyard sites from Zind-Humbrecht provides a fascinating exploration of site, variety and vintage that is rarely laid so bare. The wines have as much intensity and intrigue as Grand Cru Burgundy, yet they are distinctly Alsatian in style, with their power, warmth and spicy mineral complexity defining its sense of place. Another distinct element to the Alsace region is that within the same vineyard each of the four permitted Grand Cru varieties - whether it be Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer or Muscat – are free to flaunt their individuality within the same site, providing different interpretations of the dominant terroir through the characteristics of each variety.   

Two of the most complementary and contrasting single-vineyard sites within Zind-Humbrecht’s portfolio are the limestone-rich Clos Windsbuhl vineyard in the Hunawihr region in Central Alsace and the volcanic Clos-Saint-Urbain vineyard located in the most southerly part of Alsace, within the Grand Cru of Rangen de Thann – the most iconic and historic vineyard of the region. 
Clos Windsbuhl: limestone 
Clos Windsbuhl overlooks the church of Sainte Hune. A monopole site (owned entirely by Zind-Humbrecht), it isn’t actually a Grand Cru, although many believe it should be. It sits directly above the Grand Cru of Rosacker – the source of Alsace’s most cult wine Clos Sainte Hune. It has a distinct soil type, rich in limestone with clay and chalk on the lower part. It is one of the last vineyards to ripen in Alsace due to its high altitude (350 metres above sea-level). It is this cooling influence and slow ripening that creates the aromatic complexity typical of this vineyard. Nestled close to the Vosges mountains, it is protected from the winds but as one of the coolest sites in Alsace, Clos Windsbuhl performs best in a warm vintage such as 2018.   Tasting the latest wines from 2018, the pulsing drive in all three wines – Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer – is obvious, no doubt the limestone soils providing this distinct tension and focus. Despite the pulsing drive, the wines remained controlled and very elegant. Olivier believes it is this finesse and elegance that is the defining characteristic of Clos Windsbuhl.  2018 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl The Riesling has a strong limestone presence, taut structure and pulse. It’s so linear, but with contained fruit – honeyed pink apple and white peach. In some ways it shares strong similarities with white Burgundy. 
2018 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl The Pinot Gris has a slightly oilier texture, and an additional lushness. Despite this, the limestone still plays a very strong role in this wine – poised, taut acidity pulses through the wine. It does not have the aromatic camouflage of Riesling, the chalky minerality is even more. Very powerful and elegant – forward drive seems very characterful of Clos Windsbuhl. 
2018 Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 
The Gewürztraminer has a beautifully focused rather than flamboyant nose of lychee and white flowers. Noticeable residual sugar gives the wine a lovely creamy textural quality, yet the energy and poise so typical of the vineyard is still very present, giving the wine lovely balancing mineral freshness. Olivier states that this Gewürztraminer has the same tannin levels as a red Burgundy!  Clos-Saint-Urbain: volcanic sandstone Clos-Saint-Urbain sits within the Grand Cru of Rangen de Thann and is Alsace’s most southerly vineyard with a unique composition of highly mineralised volcanic soil (unlike any other site in Alsace). With its south-facing steep vineyards, the vines get incredible sun exposure, and the dark reddish-brown soil heats up like a furnace.  All these elements help the grapes reach high levels of phenolic ripeness, while the altitude of 350 to 450 metres means the vines are some of the most late-ripening, with the harvest often taking place two to three weeks after the start of the harvesting period in Alsace. The altitude and poor soils also protect the acidity in the wine, together producing some of the longest-lived white wines ever made. Decanter’s Andrew Jefford describes the Rangen vineyard as producing "the ultimate terroir wine", and it has even been nicknamed by many as "the Montrachet of Alsace".

Like Clos Windsbuhl, Clos-Saint-Urbain has similar intensity and strong mineral presence, though the mineral profile is really very different. It is much flintier and smokier, almost a touch of peat-smoke. All the three varieties are much more savoury on the palate. Whereas the fruit is more present and pristine in the Clos Windsbuhl, in the Clos-Saint-Urbain, the fruit is more caramelised and plays second fiddle to the volcanic minerality. 
 Riesling 2018 Clos-Saint-Urbain This is expressive on the nose, dominated by flint, chalk stone and caramelised lemon. The tension is remarkable. With the high mineral content comes real intensity and power too. Quince, lemon sherbet and a strong salinity creates an expansive mouth-watering finish. This is epic.  2018 Pinot Gris Clos-Saint-Urbain This rich, full-bodied, opulent Pinot Gris has heat-fuelled flint and smoke characters. The wine has a very creamy mid-palate, a silky and supple texture with gorgeous apricot and nectarine flavours interspersed with the saline-tinged smoky minerality. Tension builds on the back palate, this is bold, rich Pinot Gris, but with plenty of focus and a mouthwatering finish. 2018 Gewürztraminer Clos-Saint-Urbain The Gewürztraminer has a wonderful smoky, peat-like nose with plenty of ginger spice, classic lychee aromas and flinty minerality. Again, there is a silky texture to the wine and a light, herby, saline bitterness to the finish. It’s very long, with a fiery, spicy finish. Explore Alsace or read more Editorial 

As Domaine Zind Hubrecht’s 2018s are released, we explore Alsace’s terroir – comparing and contrasting two of its finest vineyards, Clos Windsbuhl and Clos-Saint-Urbain with Olivier Humbrecht MW

Tasting Domaine Zind Hubrecht’s 2018 wine releases and exploring Alsace’s terroir, Visiting Clos Windsbuhl and Clos-Saint-Urbain with Olivier Humbrecht MW

Exploring Alsace’s terroir

Exploring Alsace’s terroir: Clos Windsbuhl versus Clos-Saint-Urbain

For the aperitif For Domaine Long-Depaquit’s Matthieu Mangenot it is the energy and power of Champagne Brut Nature Les Marnes Blanches from Jeaunaux-Robin, that makes it his choice at Christmas. “I can't say for sure if it is the 100% Chardonnay selection or the very elegant vinification in Burgundy barrel that is this Champagne’s (hidden) tribute to our region but there is absolutely no ‘make up‘ with this Champagne. With no dosage it is a true expression of Chardonnay and terroir. To me, it is the best sparkling to get you ready for Christmas dinner!”  Klaus-Peter Keller (Weingut Keller) and his family love Champagne Bérèche & Fils or Krug, “but we will definitely enjoy some sparkling wines from Germany too!” he adds. Gianlorenzo di Neri from Montalcino’s Casanova di Neri is also choosing something local, with a 2002 Trentodoc – Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, as well as a family favourite, Champagne Egly-Ouriet’s Blanc de Noirs. Saskia de Rothschild (Ch. Lafite-Rothschild) breaks the mould and prefers to drink ice-cold Sauternes as an aperitif rather than sparkling wine. She is still toying on whether to go young or old, deciding between a 2017, an 2007 or 1989 from Ch. Rieussec. The whites White Burgundy seems the overwhelmingly popular choice for the Christmas table. Francisco Baettig (Viña Errázuriz, Viñedo Chadwick and Baettig wines) opting for a bottle of Pulingy-Montrachet Les Combettes from Etienne Sauzet. “I love the elegance and balance of this appellation, and the purity of the wines from this producer.” Neri is saving his last bottle of 2005 Bourgogne Blanc by Coche-Dury alongside a 1991 Terlano Rarita, a Pinot Bianco blend released 25 years after it was made, proving the incredible ageing potential of top whites from Alto Adige. Mangenot has also opted for a rarity for the special day – a magnum of 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc from Château-Gris (Albert Bichot). Chardonnay accounts for just 2% of the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation. “The wine has a lot of richness and a beautiful tension due to the altitude of the vineyards,” says Mangenot: he is pairing it with cod fillet and citrus cream. Keller is bucking the trend and unsurprisingly opting for dry Rieslings, specifically from the 1990s, along with an eagerly awaited bottle of 1959 Mosel Piesporter Schubertslay. In 2008, Keller (although based in Rheinhessen) took over 0.7 hectares of this incredibly steep slope in the Mosel and he is using his Christmas dinner to do some research on this Mosel site with some serious bottle age. The reds Keller is not holding back on the reds: he’s got a 1966 Ch. la Mission Haut-Brion and a 1991 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Hubert Lignier lined up. Gianlorenzo di Neri is also opting for a Clos de la Roche, although his is a 2006 from Armand Rousseau. At the Neri household they love to compare Grand Cru Burgundy with their Brunellos, “It should be amazing to taste our 2006 Tenuta Nuova alongside.” Beyond Brunello and Burgundy, they will also be enjoying some top Nebbiolo, but it’s not an easy choice. “For Barolo we love so many producers, Elio Grasso’s Runcot – 2008 should be delicious now – or possibly Giacosa’s 2007 Barbaresco Asili Riserva.” For Mangenot, “The middle of winter is a good period to open a bottle of sunshine like Cornas Vin Noir 2012 from Domaine du Tunnel (my wife loves it!) – concentration, density, beautiful complexity, silky tannins… And a bunch of aromas that turns your dinner into a summer journey in a convertible car with your nose in the wind!” Beattig is also opting for Northern Rhône Syrah from his favourite producer Pierre Gonon, a Saint-Joseph. “I love the complexity of aromas, the spiciness. The structure of the wine, but at the same time the polished tannins. The mix of freshness, complexity and depth... love it.” At the Rothschild household it will of course be Lafite: “1988 or/and 1996: two absolute favourites of mine these days,” Saskia explains. “The 1988 is pure Lafite, extremely complex and evolving and the ’96, thanks to its perfect balance, is just so easy to drink that you’ll finish the bottle without even noticing it.” Jean-Guillaume Prats (CEO of Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite) is staying pretty loyal too, opting for Pomerol’s Ch. l’Evangile 2010. To finish Finally the sweets and fortifieds: there is never a better time to open aged Ports to go with the cheese and desserts of Christmas. For Lafite’s Jean-Guillaume Prats it will be Dow’s 1977 – in his words, “perfection”. Mangenot is also going for Vintage Port: Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2001, “to go with a homemade chocolate mousse, and the rest of the bottle definitely to enjoy slowly by the fire with the family… Fruits, flowers, creamy character, it is a treat for the nose and the palate I wouldn't miss it at any price.” Keller decides on the sweet wines more spontaneously: “One of our favorite combinations is matching 40 and 50-year-old Ausleses with game dishes. It can taste so great. The anticipation is already great.” If fortifieds are not your thing, then take Jean-Sébastien Philippe of Lafite’s recommendation: he’ll be having a glass (or two) of Cognac de Lafite Très Vieille Réserve. He believes it is one of the most astonishing selections of old eaux-de-vies in Cognac. Browse our full range

There’s no better time than Christmas to open a treasured bottle or two. Ahead of the big day, we asked a handful of our favourite winemakers – from Saskia de Rothschild to Klaus-Peter Keller – to tell us what they’ll be uncorking

We find out the special bottles some of our favourite winemakers and distillers are uncorking this Christmas

What winemakers are drinking this Christmas

Bagliodi Grisi

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