1990 Ruchottes Chambertin

The 1990 Ruchottes-Chambertin is bestowed with what some might describe as a simple bouquet that in common with other wines from this warm vintage, articulates more the growing season than the terroir. Black cherries intermingle with liquorice, orange peel and later mulberry scents, palpably richer than the 1989 but as a consequence, it misses the delineation one expects. The palate is firm in the mouth and maybe this was pushed too much in the winery? There is good backbone and the acidity is well judged, though the finish does not possess the finesse of top vintages. If you are seeking a bold ‘n brassy Ruchottes-Chambertin from Mugneret then this is where to come, although I wager that it is not the virtue that most aficionados seek from this domaine. Tasted at the Ruchottes-Chambertin vertical in London.

I tasted through the Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg's wines twice in cask and once following bottling. They are firm wines, without the sweetness and opulence I have noted in vintages such as 1985. They will undoubtedly be long-lived. The Ruchottes-Chambertin is closed, with a spicy, earthy, animal-scented nose, adequate ripeness, medium to full body, crisp acidity, and a moderately long, spicy, tannic finish. Eventually, it should prove to be outstanding, but for now it is closed and angular. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2008. Peter Vezan Selections, various importers.