2023 Sorte Antiga
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A new release, the 2023 Sorte Antiga from ungrafted bush vines that yield tiny berries is full of tension and grace, so refined, with a touch of concentration but not too much. It’s just outstanding, elegant, full-bodied, and richly woven in acidity and minerality, the kind of wine you’ll remember forever. Drink best 2030-2043. The youngest brother of Alvaro Palacios, one of the pioneers of modern Priorat, and uncle of Ricardo Perez Palacios of Descendientes de J. Palacios in nearby Bierzo, Rafael Palacios came to Valdeorras in 2004 and started buying neglected vineyards planted to forgotten native Godello in low-yielding soils at the highest elevations. The winemaking here is modern, with a nod to tradition, using horse and mule in the highest vineyards.
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Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Sorte Antiga, produced with grapes from very old vines, planted in 1920, has changed through the years, and the 2023 Sorte Antiga seems to be one of the finest vintages to date, with the effect of the skin contact almost unnoticeable in the wine other than making it textured and nuanced. The nose is phenomenal too, perfumed and with notes of grapefruit and tangerine peel, denoting citrus freshness (it has a low pH and notable acidity). The destemmed grapes fermented in an open-top 1,500-liter oak vat with indigenous yeasts and matured in third-use, 500-liter French oak barrels for nine months. 1,250 bottles produced. This vineyard is in the process of being certified organic and biodynamic by Demeter.
100% Godello from a centenarian vineyard. The vineyard is mulched with straw to avoid tilling, and the vines are supported by a structure of four stakes and ropes, offering both shade and excellent grape protection while maintaining ventilation. Skin maceration for four weeks, treated as a gentle infusion. Fermentation takes place in open 2,000-litre vats over a month, followed by ageing in used 500-litre barrels. Smoky, chalky and with notes of quince. The level of precision and finesse is extraordinary for a skin-contact wine. It’s truly remarkable how delicacy and softness are preserved here. Flinty, smoky, and with a long, mineral-driven finish. (FC)
The 2023 Godello Sorte Antigua is from Valdeorras. Its oxidative style is apparent from its deep yellow hue. This opens with aromas of stewed pear, apple, vanilla and cedar, followed by a hint of vermouth, herbs and barrel notes. Dry and medium-bodied, with elevated freshness and a touch of skin-contact grip, it departs from the typical regional profile. Characterful and well-made, this is a rich, individualistic wine for drinkers seeking their own path.