2016 Château Lafite Rothschild***

Graphite, cherries, tobacco and cedar on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, subdued and elegant, showing harmony, refined fruit, freshness and tannins that are polished and focused in the finish of generous, polished fruit. A beautiful, elegant, balanced Pauillac. Drinking exceptionally well now, but it will go on and on. Drink or hold. 10 Years On retrospective.

Classically trained and expressed Lafite, layers upon layers of crayon, slate, graphite, cigar box, grilled earth, campfire, raspberry, cassis, redcurrant, this is making adjectives pour fourth, and you'll be very very happy if you get hold a bottle of this. Brilliant, a glorious Lafite that can easily go for decades. 100% new oak, Eric Kohler technical director.

The 2016 Lafite-Rothschild was tasted from two bottles, the first demonstrating some signs of oxidation. The second is quite rich and powerful on the nose, offering blackberry, raspberry, black olive and sous-bois scents that are almost Pessac-Léognan in style. The palate is well balanced with firm, grippy tannins. It feels precise and poised, brimming over with energy and displaying a sense of control toward the lightly spiced, athletic finish. I would like the aromatics to be tempered, although that will happen with time. There is real breeding in this 2016, and it will mature in bottle over decades. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.