1997 Château Lafite Rothschild***

Tasted blind as a vintage comparison at the Valandraud vertical, the 1997 Lafite-Rothschild appears to be a wine that sparkled in its youth, but is not maturing with the grace and style of other vintages after almost 20 years. It has a well-defined bouquet with crushed strawberry, wet sand and light tobacco notes that gradually unfurl. I appreciate the precision here - typical Lafite-Rothschild. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry, a little foursquare with some dryness towards the attenuated finish. It feels bound together by the fine thread of acidity, yet the long and short of it is that while its descent will be gradual, it will not repay continued bottle ageing. Tasted December 2016.

This for me was the most 'Lafite' wine of the evening, and showed none of the weakness of some 1997s. Amazingly deep ruby. Lift and race. Real racehorse thoroughbred qualities. That lovely Lafite ballerina thing – all charm without any weakeness. Long with just a hint of gunpowder. Just lovely: complete and long. Clever old dining-club committee bought it in 2002 for just £53 a bottle when it would cost £700 a bottle to replace it now. (JR)

Deep crimson right out to the rim. Exceptionally lively and sprightly on the nose with bags of fruit, zest and an intriguing bouquet. Silky texture and very focussed aroma. Persistent with a real beginning, middle and end to its impact on the palate. This wine was head and shoulders above the rest on the night. Concentrated and compact underneath but great dancing lift on the top of the drinking experience. This tastes as though it were made in a different vintage from the others! (JR)