1990 Domaine Joseph Roty Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

Roty made three dazzling wines in 1990, but you will probably have to make a substantial withdrawal from your bank in order to afford them. Roty's Griottes-Chambertin (a whopping four cases were allocated to the United States) is slightly lighter than the Mazy-Chambertin, as well as more elegant and softer, without the ferocious tannins so evident in the Mazy. It boasts medium to full-body, superb extraction of flavor, and a seductive nose of black-cherries, smoky oak and minerals. The long finish is slightly tannic. This wine can be drunk in 3-4 years and promises to last for 10-15 . Anyone who has visited the Roty cellars knows that while interesting, one's stay can be painfully long given (1) Roty's chain smoking, (2) incessant non-wine talk, and (3) general reluctance to answer specific questions. At the top end, his 1990s are every bit as superb as his 1980s and 1985s. Importer: Wine Markets International, Syosset, NY.