2023 DuMOL Pinot Noir Estate
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The 2023 Pinot Noir DuMOL Estate Vineyard is a real head-turner, just as it was in barrel. Dark, sumptuous fruit, leather, incense, tobacco, dried herbs and graphite open first, buffered by brisk acids and beams of tannin that shape the mid-palate and finish. Deceptively medium in body, the 2023 packs a very serious punch. I would be in no rush to drink this. The Estate consists of Calera and Swan clones from high-density vineyards and was made with fully destemmed fruit.
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Punteggio medio
Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2023 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard comes from Calera and Swan vines planted in 2005. Grapes were harvested on September 14 and 22, and the wine was matured for 15 months in 37% new French oak. "For me, this is the wine of the vintage,” chief winemaker and proprietor Andy Smith says. “I first made this wine in 2007, and for me, this is unquestionably the best wine we’ve ever made from this vineyard.” The estate Pinot Noir is impressively pure and intense, with dramatically unfurling scents of pomegranate, blueberry, iron, juniper, charcuterie and violet. The medium-bodied palate offers expansive, kaleidoscopic flavors. It’s framed by refined, silky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, detailed finish. It should be long lived in the cellar. 1,200 cases were made.
Coming from the vineyards above Bressay, the ruby-hued 2023 Pinot Noir Dumol Estate Vineyard is based on a blend of Calera and Swan clones. It reveals aromas of ripe red cherries, cinnamon, raspberries, orange peel, and wildflowers. The palate has tremendous tension and more wound-up nervous energy, with fantastic linear drive. It’s a spectacular wine that will only improve with another several years in bottle. Drink 2027-2050. Late last year, Andy Smith handed over the winemaking portion of his title to Jenna Davis. Jenna has been with the winery for over ten years, joining as a harvest intern in 2014 and working up to assistant winemaker. Andy retains his roles as partner and winegrower at DuMOL but was ready to pass the torch to the next generation in the winery’s legacy. The 2023s for this report were tasted in Sonoma with Andy and Jenna, as they have been for all three years of my coverage. Earning top marks for what this vintage has to offer, across the range the wines capture freshness and retain the focused concentration that gives them serious potential for longevity.
The 2023 Pinot Noir DuMOL Estate Vineyard is positively stunning. A blend of Calera and Swan, the 2023 dazzles from start to finish. It embodies all the elements of the DuMOL house style. Vibrant and persistent, the 2023 offers tremendous textural intensity and fine, fine balance. Red/purplish fruit, blood orange, mint, cloves and lavender build into the long, sustained finish. Quite simply, this is one of the very best wines I have ever tasted at DuMOL.