2014 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

Frankly, who cares about the specs – for the record, this Chardonnay hails from Grands Crus Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; it spent 10 years in the cellar; its dosage is 8-9g/L.  Nothing new here.  What is showstopping about this wine is that it is an absolute beauty from the tips of its toes to the last fibre of its being.  While the world and its aunt went tonto about the 2013, I held my cards close to my chest.  It was a wine I liked on release and still like (yes, just like) today.  It is impressive, towering and structured, but for me, it doesn’t resonate deeply in my psyche on account of scale and muscle alone.  The building blocks are too rigid and brusque to conjure up a sense of true wonder, and Comtes is a wine I have been enchanted with in the past, so when four-square vintages come along, I find myself sitting on the sidelines while other commentators dance their jigs.  So, with a couple of ounces of trepidation, I approached the 2014 release on Monday afternoon, only to be told to jog off and come back when it was the right temperature.  Easy enough, but this only served to heighten my expectations.  One hour later, and perfectly chilled, it was poured into my glass and the world, for a minute or two, became a glittering kaleidoscope of effortless, cleansing, elegant and sophisticated Grand-Cru-born, and perfectly balanced Chardonnay.  This is the world of Comtes, as I know it.  I demand, and only react to, an exultant level of pristine fruit and seamless palate texture that this 2014 (and a handful of previous vintages) offer, and in addition, the finish, tension, and, ultimately, the pay-off, which is evinced in a sensational flavour memory which encapsulates the legend of this wine and its reputation, is complete.  This is Comtes.  This is the Taittinger House in a sip!  It is a phenomenal Chardonnay from the historic Côtes des Blancs, and it is not only drinking now, but I venture it will roll for a further decade and more without breaking step.  If you, like me, have missed ‘classic Comtes’ of late, here she is.  And this is why this beautiful wine has pushed all others aside to stand in the spotlight this week.

A textbook blanc de blancs Champagne, with a rich waft of toasted hazelnut on the nose, plus a voluptuous range of poached apricot, quince paste, tangerine peel and brioche notes that expand on the finely detailed mousse. Focused by well-cut acidity, this is long and mouthwatering, with fragrant spice, mineral and floral accents on the finish.

Apricots, hazelnuts, lemons, white flowers, sliced almonds and hints of licorice on the nose. It's creamy and layered, with soft, rounded bubbles that spread across the palate. Lovely balance of breadth, ripeness and freshness, with delicious wildflower honey and nut notes lingering. 100% grand cru chardonnay from Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Chouilly. Drink or hold.