2023 Sufreiral
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From rare limestone soils at high altitude on a steep incline, 2023 Mencia Sufreiral Vino De Paraje Toral De Los Vados has 6-7% white grapes and 25% stem inclusion, aged in big barrels. Marquez used to do most of his wines 100% whole-cluster but is starting to use less, particularly in hotter vintages. There’s a smooth, seductive quality here of unctuous body and intensity, yet still an airiness and ethereal nature to the wine. The acidity is juicy and balanced, and there’s a touch of grip from the tannins, with ample structure to go another 10-12 years. One of the young members of the new guard, Cesar Marquez Perez focuses on the region of Bierzo and most specifically the village of Valtuille De Abajo, which has the most wineries in one place in the region, 14, with only 60 inhabitants. His family has run a winery for generations, and between 2011 and 2016, Cesar worked with Raoul Perez. He started his own project in 2015 to differentiate from the family winery. He focuses on less alcohol, more length, and delicacy.
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Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
Joaquin Hidalgo, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2023 Sufreiral comes from a centenary plot in the village of Toral de los Vados on the other, southwest-facing side of Pico Ferreira, one of the few plots on limestone-based soils in Bierzo. It fermented in 1,000-liter vats, as he has different small plots that are vinified separately, with some 35% full clusters and indigenous yeasts (like all his wines). It matured in 600-liter oak barrels and a 1,200-liter oak vat for 12 months. It's very complete, floral and nuanced, elegant and fine-boned, with a different texture, chalky, given the limestone soils. The wine has 13.07% alcohol, a pH of 3.69 and 5.11 grams of acidity. 1,940 bottles were filled in January 2025.
The 2023 Sufreiral is 100% Mencía from a hillside vineyard on slate soils in Bierzo. Aromas of soft herbs, cherry, mint, violet, pea shoots and elderberry unfold with a subtle florality. The talc-like texture and compact frame lead to juiciness and tension. This is energetic, fresh and full of nuance. A lively, engaging Bierzo red.