2008 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux

(100% sauvignon blanc; 25 hl/ha; 14% alcohol) Straw-green. Typical pure sauvignon nose of green fig, yellow melon and ripe gooseberry, nicely complemented by hints of chamomile and mint. The delicate fresh flavors echo the aromas in this subtle, aromatically complex white wine. The moderately concentrated but long finish offers a mineral element and a lingering note of green anise. You might say the '08 is back to normalfor Pavillon Blanc, after the flamboyantly rich '07, with its almost 16% alcohol.

Pale greenish gold. Lots of acidity and more minerals than usual but with passion fruit too. Very firm and tight. Chalky finish. Bracing. Not as potent as some other recent vintages. (JR)

Compared to 2006 and 2007, the 2008 dry white wines of Bordeaux are inferior, but that does not mean they are not very good. They do not possess the flesh, power, or richness of the 2006 and 2007, but they reveal precise, intensely aromatic personalities, lighter bodies, and more noticeable acidity. These remain among the world’s most underrated world-class dry white wines. I will provide full tasting notes once they are in bottle, but following are the dry whites I tasted along with their approximate scores.