2011 Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon

Graphite, smoke, dark red fruit, iron and a host of mineral-inflected notes jump from the glass in Kamen's 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon. There is tons of mountain personality in this dense, structured, powerful Cabernet. In 2011, Kamen did not produce their top of the line Kashmir; all of the best fruit went into the straight Cabernet Sauvignon.

Not surprisingly, the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegant, lighter-styled wine exhibiting sweet cassis fruit, soft tannins and a velvety, medium-bodied mouthfeel. It can be consumed now and over the next 7-8 years. Some terrific Cabernet Sauvignons are emerging from Sonoma, and Kamen Estate’s 2009 and 2010 Cabernets both merit attention, especially from readers who believe Napa makes the only great California Cabernet Sauvignons. The two luxury cuvees, made, I assume, from the best barrels, include the 2009 and 2010 Cashmere, both of which are profound examples of Cabernet Sauvignon that could rival the finest from Napa in a blind tasting. Tel. (707) 938-1700

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon is a bit tight and closed in on itself, but it has very good density and inner tension. Insistent tones of dark red and black fruit, mint and flowers are supported by firm yet nicely integrated tannins. Crushed rocks, melted road tar and violets are some of the many notes that are layered into the vibrant finish.