2008 Tablas Creek Mourvèdre

The 2008 Mourvedre comes across as quite subtle. Sweet dark plums, spices, tobacco, leather and licorice take shape in the glass. This shows the more feminine, understated side of the grape. Floral, minty notes add complexity on the round, caressing finish. This is a pretty, sensual wine from Tablas Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

Surprisingly smooth and supple, the 2008 Tablas Creek Mourvedre, aged all in foudres, exhibits complex underbrush, Asian spice, forest floor, and bright red and black fruits on the nose. Savory and elegant, as opposed to sweet and powerful, the wine is medium bodied and light on the palate, carrying a deft, smooth texture, integrated acidity, and notable balance. The wine’s structure comes out on the finish. Delicious, and very easy to drink, this should be consumed over the next 5 to 8 years.

Inky ruby. Sexy dark berries and cola on the nose, with notes of violet and licorice adding complexity. Very fruity, with more clarity and less gaminess than most French versions of the variety, offering sweet blackberry and mulberry flavors and a touch of woodsmoke. Distinctly rich but there's good energy here as well. The finish is sweet, broad and very long.