1998 Martinelli Zinfandel Jackass Hill Vineyard

The deep purple-colored 1998 Zinfandel Jackass Hill Vineyard (17% alcohol) is tightly-knit and structured... at least initially. After ten minutes of airing, the wine begins to unfold, revealing multiple dimensions in its glorious perfume, richness, and complexity. It is a massive Zinfandel with spectacular aromatics (smoke, prunes, plums, raspberries, coffee, cedar, new saddle leather) as well as viscous, chewy, full-throttle flavors. A wine of enormous force as well as unbelievable symmetry, it should age for a decade. I would not be surprised to see well-stored examples display considerable fruit and complexity at age twenty or thirty. Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463

Deep red, neither as bright nor as ruby as the Guiseppe and Louisa bottling. Deeper, more complex aromas of raspberry and strawberry preserves, roast coffee and mocha. Hugely rich but miraculously bright in the mouth; burnished, complex flavors are a bit less fruit-driven than those of the above. Finishes with big, tongue-dusting tannins. The Martinellis removed fruit four times in '98, eventually harvesting these vines at the end of October. Superb for the year.