1979 Vega Sicilia Unico

60% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon., 20% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. Early harvest (late September). After initial ageing in large-capacity wooden tank the wine was transferred to new casks in January 1981 for 2 years, after which it was transferred to old casks until March 1987, when it was bottled. As rapid evolution was observed in the cask, the maturing period in the cask was cut and bottling was brought forward. 42,100 bottles and 2,200 magnums. From magnum. Lively colour. Light char impression followed by brilliant fruit definition. Sweet and still at this age it has such attack! Really wonderful. (JR)

An austere growing season, slightly less than 1980 – very classical VS. Mature phase now. Mature-lookig dark ruby. Very alluring complexity – more so than the 1982. Rich and layered underneath but with a high-toned aromatic complexity too. A slight animal hint. (JR)

There was no Unico released in 1977 or 1978 so this must have come as a blessing at the time. The 1979 Unico has a generous bouquet that is not quite as complex as other vintages, with notes of mint, sandalwood, dried blood and redcurrant. The palate is medium-bodied, a little more rustic with tart red fruit, racy acidity with raspberry coulis, strawberry and a healthy sprinkling of white pepper towards the finish. It is a little compact at the moment but it has a fine effervescent, ferrous aftertaste that has more breadth and length than the 1976. 42,100 bottles produced. Drink now-2025. Aug 2012, www.robertparker.com