2000 Vietti Barolo Brunate

The 2000 Barolo Brunate presents aromatics that are more advanced than the wine’s fruit and tannins, a common state for the less successful 2000s. Sweet balsamic notes develop in the glass, adding some complexity, but the wine remains excessively marked by French oak. Some wines from this period have absorbed the oak (the 1998 Lazzarito comes to mind) but not here. Dry, woody tannins frame the finish. There isn’t too much upside from cellaring bottles further. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Long-time readers know the late 1990s and early 2000s were a period of transition at Vietti. It was a time of experimentation with winemaking that led to the growth that now informs the spectacular wines of more recent vintages. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

As I have noted previously, the 2000 vintage offers wines that are amazingly open at this stage in their youths and most of these Brunate Barolos can be enjoyed today, although some wines may require more oxygenation. The wines were tasted blind and are listed in the order tasted. 2000 Vietti Barolo Brunate—Burnished ruby. The nose is very fresh and redolent of flowers, toasted oak, crushed raspberries, and eucalyptus. There is good persistence and length here with plenty of sweet ripe fruit and a supple, caressing structure. This took some time to open up.

Medium red. Aromas of raspberry, mocha, clove, licorice and mint. Lush and broad on entry, then rich, sweet and concentrated in the middle, if not as complex and perfumed as the 2001. Not quite as pliant today as the Castiglione or Ravera. But the wine's finish features sweet, fine-grained tannins.