1999 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigneti Dei Cottimelli

Impenetrable dark with brickstone rim. Treacle, tobacco, forest floor, leather. Savoury. Just a hint of oxidation. Tea leaves. Fills the mouth with chocolate-coated cherry and dark dried fruits matched by lovely balancing acidity and impressively built tannin structure. Very long and a little bit idiosyncratic compared with the later style. (WS)