2005 Vinicola Real Rioja 200 Monges Reserva Especial

The 2005 "200 Monges" Seleccion Especial is a winery selection made by tasting each of the lots, and it is raised entirely in new French oak from different coopers and different toastings. It has an obdurate, broody bouquet whose intense dark plum fruit is tightly wound and unfurls reluctantly with notes of blackberry, licorice and blood orange. The palate is medium-bodied with superb structure and sense of symmetry, dictated by the crisp acidity that underpins this wine from start to finish. However, I just wish the oak were more subsumed into the fruit profile. It has a firm backbone and a tannic finish and it merits four to five years cellaring. Drink 2016-2025. I am thankful that an apoplectic policeman that pulled over our vehicle for a seat belt violation (see introduction) eventually allowed me to continue on my journey to Vinicola Real. That was too minor a transgression to be denied winemaker Miguel Ruiz's excellent wines. He told me that his aim is to produce Reservas and Gran Reservas of great longevity, like his inspiration in Bordeaux. Here, the vines are certified organic. Miguel also has his only personal project: Tierra Antigua (see separate entry) but I will commence with their recently introduced "Urbion" range, where the aim to produce a quality, entry-level Riojas. Importer: Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA (Monges); The Marfa Group, Texas and HP Selections, NY (Urbion)