2009 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Santo Stefano

The 2009 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is a big improvement over the 2008, although it still isn’t up to the level of the best wines that emerged from this historic cellar in Neive over the last four decades. Crushed flowers, tobacco, cloves and sweet dried cherries are all woven together nicely. Overall, the 2009 is a pretty Barbaresco with lovely mid-palate pliancy and fine overall harmony. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is solid. Stylistically, it is a fairly light to medium-bodied wine with much more near-term appeal than potential for aging. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Bruno Giacosa fans will be thrilled to learn of the return of long-time winemaker Dante Scaglione to this historic property. Scaglione spent 16 years alongside Giacosa and is now back with the winery as a consultant, which bodes well for the future. The first vintage Scaglione oversaw in his new role is 2011. Until then, readers will have to accept the fact that the current releases aren’t up to Giacosa’s historical standards. Few, if any, Piemonte producers are more heavily represented in my cellar than Bruno Giacosa. I still own a few bottles of the mythical 1964 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva, which remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Count me among those who hope this iconic winery can quickly return to the level of their glory days. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

(white label): Medium red. Very ripe strawberry on the expressive, forward nose. Elegant and penetrating, with very good grip to the cherry and strawberry flavors. Not especially fleshy for the year; in fact, this went into a shell in the glass. Finishes with edgy tannins and lovely lift. This suave wine should harmonize with five or six years of cellaring.