2009 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Volnay

The 2009 Volnay is a great example of a wine that performs far above its appellation in this vintage. It is a fleshy, seductive Volnay literally bursting at the seams with fruit. It’s hard not to love this sexy, juicy Volnay. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Importers: Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300

(made from the young vines of Santenots): Good saturated dark red-ruby. Black raspberry and a chocolatey ripeness on the nose. A fat, sweet fruit bomb in the mouth, stuffed with black cherry and chocolate flavors complicated by a smoky nuance. Seamless wine with a strong finish featuring very ripe tannins and nicely integrated acidity. Dominique Lafon told me that he began with the chardonnay in 2009, figuring there would be plenty of time to pick the pinot, but he ended up harvesting almost all of his red grapes in just two days, September 12 and 13 (the Monthelie on the 15th), with virtually no sorting necessary.

The 2009 Volnay is made from young vines in Santenots. It shows terrific energy and vibrancy in a totally seductive expression of Volnay. The fruit builds beautifully through to the creamy, generous texture.