2008 Gevrey Chambertin

Incorporating fruit from parcels high up in Brochon but also from near the border with Morey, Boillot's 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin mingles salt; shrimp shell reduction; and the cyanic piquancy of cherry pits with its juicy, fresh cherry fruit. A pleasing counterpoint of textural plushness with brightness leads into a long, lip-smacking, subtly salt- and iodine-tinged finish. This elegant Pinot seems ready and waiting, though it might well tighten after bottling. I would expect it to be worth revisiting over at least a 4-5 year period. Pierre Boillot - Lucien's grandson, for details on whose history, properties, and connection with other Boillots, see issues and 186 and 170 - noted that his Cote de Beaune fruit required more rigorous sorting in 2008 than did that from the Cote de Nuits, and the former resulted in several wines of relatively aggressive astringency. I tasted his 2008s prior to their March and April bottlings, and (except where noted) assembled from tank. (Unfortunately, shortage of time kept me from tasting Boillot's 2007s.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524