2000 Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Les Chetillons

The 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons (magnum) is a sumptuous, opulent wine that flows with layers of smoke, licorice, lime, minerals, ripe fruit and spices, all of which are supported by a gorgeous streak of minerality. This is an exciting, racy wine that I find completely irresistible and sensual. It’s hard to say how much of this wine’s superb quality is due to the large format, but the simple fact remains that there are few more satisfying wines in the world than a fine, vintage Champagne from a top producer and site aged in magnum. Needless to say, the 2000 Cuvée Spéciale “Les Chétillons” is highly recommended. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020. It is hard to get a word in edge-wise with Rudolf Peters, as he is incredibly passionate, something that clearly comes through in these exceptional wines. The family-run domaine oversees 17.5 hectares of vineyards, 10 of which are planted with Chardonnay in the prestigious Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger. All of the wines undergo malolactic fermentation. Peters has removed disgorgement dates from his bottles, but after a long discussion on the importance of this subject, my sense is that he will be putting them back on next year. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(for a magnum) Light, bright gold. Bright lemon and orange aromas give way to richer pear and white peach with air. Round and sappy, offering candied lemon and honeysuckle flavors, with impressive mineral snap on the back. Becomes richer on the finish, which repeats the lemon and mineral notes. Put this youthful, impressively pure wine in a cool spot for another five years or so.