2012 Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

(Jordan bottled his Sonoma Coast pinot and chardonnay last June, and the rest of his 2012s in August and September; just 15% new oak): Medium red. Slightly high-toned aromas of cranberry, cherry and licorice. Spicy and intense, with good lift and sap to the red berry flavors. Good brisk, persistent, varietally expressive pinot. Jordan produced 2,000 cases of this blend.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is without question one of the most tannic wines in this range. A rich, structured Pinot, the 2012 is laced with smoke, tobacco, incense, orange peel and exotic spices. The Estate Pinot changes constantly in the glass, showing the intrigue and nuance that this rugged coastal site is capable of. The 2012 could use another year or two to fully come together, but it is impressive, even at this early stage. Still, I expect the Estate will always remain structured and powerful in style.

Another provocative effort is the 2012 Pinot Noir Estate Fort Ross-Seaview. A blend of mostly Calera and Joseph Swan clonal material as well as a small amount of Mt. Eden, it boasts a deep ruby/plum color along with notes of steak tartare, black cherries and sweet apple skins, nicely integrated, crisp acids, sweet tannin and a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel. This beauty should improve for several years and last a decade or more. This is the personal project of Ehren Jordan, who was the long-time apprentice at Turley Cellars. These are all elegant, cool climate, finesse-styled wines that were obviously influenced by European rather than New World models. Jordan owns estate vineyards in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA and purchased fruit from some of the top growers in that region. Tel. (707) 963-0530