2002 Domaine Michel Magnien Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Full ruby-red. Superripe, reduced aromas of crushed blackcurrant, brown spices, sassafras and orange peel, with a hint of geranium. Suave, minerally and perfumed, with a strong spine of acidity giving the flavors excellent penetration. This very young, tightly wound grand cru needs a good six or eight years of patience. (Unfortunately, my bottle of the Charmes-Chambertin, which showed strong promise from barrel, was too reduced to assess.)

Mocha and black fruits can be discerned in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Clos de la Roche. Medium-bodied, suave, and supple, it displays lovely dark fruits and a long, expressive finish. There is no doubt that this wine is outstanding, yet it appears to lack the depth of either Magnien’s Charmes or Clos St.-Denis. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

(racked a week prior to my visit with minimal aeration) Deep red-ruby. Very dark aromas of blackberry, mocha, espresso, bitter chocolate and flowers, with a light leesy quality from the recent racking. Broad, lush and very rich; a large-scaled grand cru with impressive volume, but also superb precision for its fat content. Very long, ripe finish exudes a scent of faded flowers.