1987 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Bella Oaks

All three of the 1987 Heitz Cabernets are extremely tight, closed in, and unbelievably tannic and hard. When first opened, the 1987 Bella Oaks offered no aroma at all, but after three days it reluctantly gave up smells of earth and cassis. It is one of the fullest-bodied, most tannic and astringent offerings from the Bella Oaks Vineyard that I have ever tasted. There is plenty of concentration, so if it comes into complete harmony and the tannins melt away, my rating may look conservative. Perhaps these wines are at a tough stage, but right now they do not look to be anywhere as impressive as the profound Cabernets made by the Heitz family in 1984, 1985, and 1986. Prospective purchasers would be well-advised to remember that all three of these wines will need extended cellaring. Whether or not all the tannins will resolve themselves remains difficult to project, but for now, the Martha's Vineyard looks to be the safest gamble.