2023 Littorai Pinot Noir Roman Vineyard

Boasting a deeper ruby color, the aromas of the 2023 Pinot Noir Roman Vineyard remind me of walking into the woods, with depth in its notes of resinous herbs, dried fruit, and botanical juniper. It has a grippy structure with a backbone and a broader shouldered feel. The year 2025 marks the 30th anniversary for Littorai. Heidi and Ted Lemon operate Littorai from their Gold Ridge Estate in Sebastapol, where they produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from exceptional cool-climate vineyard sites on the Sonoma Coast and in Anderson Valley. Ted is, hands down, one of Sonoma's most important farmers and winemakers today. Though they farm biodynamically, they prefer to describe their practices in the vineyards as “generative farming,” a term intended to include the human relationship to the stewardship and shaping of the land as part of modern nature and integrated farming. In the winery, all the wines undergo spontaneous fermentations, with the reds going through two to three weeks of fermentation, and although Ted is not dogmatic in his approach, each of the wines is raised similarly. All of the wines for this report were tasted at the estate.

The 2023 Pinot Noir Roman Vineyard opens with flinty tones that give way to blackberry, red cherry, pomegranate, iodine and Fernet. The palate offers concentration without weight, its silky tannins and vibrant acidity nestled into deep, spicy flavors. It has a long, latent finish and will be long lived in the cellar. 217 cases were made.

The site is 2.3 miles south-east of Navarro in the coolest part of Anderson Valley. The vineyard sits at 1,150 ft of elevation on a saddle of land looking due south The tiny knoll breaks both east and west and sits like a bubble overlooking the valley below. The soils are typical of upland Anderson Valley: 18 in of sandy loam above soft sandstone. Planted in 1999, this site is farmed using organic and biodynamic methods but is not certified. Free-run juice from a combination of destemmed fruit and 21% whole clusters ferments with ambient yeasts in a combination of steel and wood, utilising both punchdowns and pumpovers, with the wines pressed at dryness. Aged for 14–17 months in 20–25% new French oak on the lees with no racking. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 217 cases produced. Garnet with some purple highlights. Aromas of dried herbs, dried flowers, raspberries, rhubarb and cherries. Gauzy tannins coat the mouth as bright cherry and raspberry fruit has a citrus-peel brightness, shot through with fresh herbs and a hint of spice. Gorgeous acidity and lovely citrus-peel notes linger in the finish with raspberry leaf. Gorgeous. (AY)