2008 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District

91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. As with previous vintages, fermented separately in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in 50% new and 50% used French oak. Bottled 1 June 2010. Hottest vintage of decade, harvest was over by 15 October which is rare. Early season, one of worst frosts in 20 years. 30% down on yields. Heat spikes and rain in vintage. A rocky extreme vintage. Critics said it won't be good, but Elizabeth Vianna thinks the wines have shown remarkably well. ‘The wine was much more austere, closed, so it didn't get the critic ratings; but it’s starting to show some of its strength with a few years on it.’ She compares it to 2006 which also has high austerity and is just starting to open up now. Deep ruby, purple tinge. Smells a bit like very sweet tomatoes, and dark ripe plums. Lots on the mid palate, with quite a pronounced acidity. It has a sharpness that the other vintages don’t have; more rigour in the tannins – as if it’s had some military training. The oak shows here, just a fraction more than the others. Fine dry tannins. This seems to be the cantankerous one of the vertical – lots of craggy character and interest; disciplined, but prickly. (TC)