1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru

Revealing a similar color, but more intense aromatics of blackberries and minerals, this wine is a soft, supple, oily, and medium-bodied offering with black raspberry and briery flavors. It is well-balanced - if a trace warm -, and more complex than the previous wine, but lacks the depth necessary for a more exalted score. Drink it over the next 5 years. As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - "the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it." With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

Good medium color. Redcurrant, licorice, leather and game on the nose. Supple and harmonious, with attractive fruit and good acidity. Finishes with fine tannins, but lacks real thrust.