2012 Isole e Olena Cepparello

Stelvin or cork. Showing a wider range of meaty aromas than the 2013, with the meaty devilled-kidney character I associate with fine, classic Chianti but still dominated by spicy cherry fruit. Dry finesse to the texture, maybe not quite as fresh as the 2013 but super-elegant. (JH)

This is a landmark wine from Tuscany that continues to offer greatness even in the uneven vintages. The 2012 Cepparello is a gregarious and beautifully intense expression that speaks highly of this beautiful and somewhat isolated corner of the Chianti Classico appellation in Barberino Val d'Elsa. I must underline that this vintage is very different from the plump and extra round 2011 Cepparello that precedes it. In fact, I like the more austere style that is so confidently put on display in 2012. That streamlined power and forthcoming determination is well matched to the natural heft and density of this important Sangiovese-based wine. It shows excellent elegance, good tannin management and a somewhat trimmed down style. There's no extra fat here and the inner fruit stands tall as a result. The first vintage of Cepparello was made was 1980.

The 2012 Cepparello is magnificent. Radiant, pliant and super-expressive, the 2012 offers magnificent intensity, with silky tannins wrapped around a core of rich, dark-toned fruit. The intensity of the fruit suggests a warm vintage, but the structure is more medium in body and typical of a cooler year. Today, the 2012 gives the impression it will drink well pretty much upon release, but history has taught me Cepparello often shuts down in bottle. Either way, the 2012 is superb.