2009 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Col d'Orcia's 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous. Fleshy, rich and layered, yet with terrific freshness, the 2009 impresses for its balance and pure vibrancy. Juicy red berries, mint, rose petals, autumn leaves and sweet spices all meld together on the finish. The 2009 is a bit more forward than other recent releases has been, but in this case, that is not a bad thing at all, as the wine is drinking beautifully today. Winemaker Antonino Tranchida took full advantage of the ability to use younger vintages and added some 2010 and 2012 to freshen up the 2009. This is a gorgeous wine by any measure, made all the more remarkable by production in excess of 200,000 bottles.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino shows the extra attention required in this difficult vintage, especially when it comes to the careful extraction of tannins and color following a hot growing season. The expert winemaking team under Managing Director Edoardo Virano has crafted an immediately approachable Brunello with bright berry, tobacco and backing spice aromas. The mouthfeel is leaner and less commanding than past vintages but the firmness of the tannin does pop through at the back, rendering a measured sense of structure and endurance. Like many of its peers, this wine is engineered for near-term consumption. Drink: 2015-2020. With the sad passing of Franco Biondi Santi in 2013, Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is among a handful of elder statesmen to fill in the enormous gap left by the legendary figure. A man of enormous inner grace and poise, Marone Cinzano embodies the winemaking passion and expertise so celebrated by the tightly knit community in Montalcino. The standout wines presented this year include Col d’Orcia’s portfolio from the Sant’Antimo appellation and the truly excellent 2010 Moscadello di Montalcino Pascena. Importer: Palm Bay International, www.palmbay.com

Mid ruby with orange rim. Just a little earthy and reductive at first. Very mellow palate lacking zest. Easy to like, though. (WS)