1989 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

The 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is peaking today. What a treat it is to taste it from an impeccably stored bottle. Striking aromatics and an Old World feeling of structure imbue the 1989 with tremendous character. Mint, cedar, tobacco, smoke and dried flowers are all so beautifully lifted here. I would prefer to drink the 1989 sooner rather than later, as there is no upside from cellaring bottles further.

I do not think richer, more intense 1989 and 1988 Cabernets can be found than these from Philip Togni. Togni's 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon is among the most controversial wines he has made under his own name, as well as one of the most concentrated wines from this generally disappointing vintage. The flamboyant, herbaceous nose offers aromas of smoky wood and flowers intertwined with scents of damp earth and black fruits. This viscous, thick wine is amazingly rich for the vintage, but an underlying vegetal element becomes noticeable as the wine sits in the glass. I admire the wine's texture and richness. Still extremely young, if it pulls itself together, this wine could merit an even higher score. Wow! This guy can sure make super Cabernet!