2008 DuMOL Chardonnay Russian River Valley

The generic 2008 Chardonnay Russian River (4,500 cases produced compared to 700-1,200 cases of the single vineyard offerings) is a blend of fruit from eight separate vineyards (from some high-class real estate - particularly the Heintz, Ritchie and Dutton sites). Made largely from the old Wente clone, the wine is barrel-fermented and aged 16 months on its lees. It offers lots of tropical fruit, brioche, hazelnut and subtle smoke notes, striking minerality, real opulence, amazing concentration for a generic wine and full body. This delicious Chardonnay should continue to provide pleasure for 3-5 years. (Not yet released) I would have to rank DuMol as one of my favorite half dozen producers of California Chardonnay as well as one of the top twenty in terms of Pinot Noir. Moreover, their Syrah program is also impressive. For unknown reasons, I did not get to taste any Viognier, which I have also loved. The 2008 Chardonnays are all performing as well if not better than they did from barrel last year. Winemaker Andy Smith told me that both he and proprietor Kerry Murphy believe 2009 is their best vintage yet for Pinot Noir, which is certainly saying something. The 2009s do look impressive, but at this early stage, I would not rate them higher than several other recent vintages. That, of course, is debatable given the fact that just about everything at this winery has been stellar since I first started tasting them. Tel. (925) 254-8922; Fax (925) 254-8942