2005 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru

The new, dedicated Lafarge bottling of 2005 Volnay Mitans also displays exotic florality and faintly bitter citrus zest and fruit pit character to accompany its ripe but tart cherry and red currant fruit. A rich meat broth character and subtle minerality add depth and complexity on the palate, and this finishes with fine tannins and multi-registered fruit, meat and mineral notes. I imagine this formidably-concentrated wine being a promising candidate for at least 6-8 years of aging, though given the absence of any specific track record, one might want to check in on it sooner. The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Good deep red. Discreet aromas of black cherry and minerals. Juicy, pure and fine-grained but a bit youthfully withdrawn in the middle palate. Then quite suave and palate-saturating toward the back, finishing with a fine dusting of tannins and a note of bitter chocolate. From redder soil, which gives a "very fine Volnay style," says Lafarge.