2006 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

The Droin 2006 Chablis Les Clos is slightly reduced and tight in its youth, but the depth of stony and saline minerality; the wine’s store of refreshing citrus; and its sheer concentration and length, promise a fascinating future. Give this 3-4 years in the cellar and expect it to last at least ten. Benoit Droin’s recent collections display increasing mastery of his medium and continued willingness to experiment, even as he extends his range of crus. His have become some of the most interesting wines in Chablis, not to mention being outstanding values. Droin prides himself on being able to harvest ahead of most of his colleagues – which in 2006 meant in advance of the official starting date – although he adds that 2007 has proved an exception to that rule. Droin by choice sells what for the region constitutes a relatively high one third share of his wine inside France. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(aged in 50% oak) Good pale color. Reticent nose hints at smoke, silex and iodine, with the wood element very much in the background; this is downright inexpressive compared to the Montee de Tonnerre. Wonderfully sweet and fine-grained, with superb vivacity and sappiness to the lemon, lime and powdered stone flavors. Still quite youthfully tight and discreet but already communicates outstanding finesse and incipient complexity. Really saturates the palate with mineral, citrus and floral flavors on the mounting, weightless back end. I'd give this a solid five years of further aging.

(50% aged in oak, but no more than 8% new) Good green-tinged yellow. Sexy aromas of musky quinine, lemon-lime, powdered stone, ginger and smoky silex Rich, broad and dry on entry, then suave and airy in the middle, with terrific volume. Almost too open for young Clos, but this chewy wine remains very light on its feet. Finishes brisk but not at all bitter or dry, with excellent length.