2004 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er Cru

Mid ruby. Fragrant and is it just autosuggestion that it really does seem to smell of a chestnut tree? Soft smudgy fruit with marked acidity on the palate. This is a no-compromises expression of the vintage with all its idiosyncrasies. Very round finish though suggests all will come right in the end. Very healthy fruit. A very slow burner. (JR)

Medium red. Deeply pitched cherry-scented nose conveys a very primary note of medicinal austerity. Then fat, sweet and reasonably pure if youthfully inexpressive today. Sappy flavors of black cherry and menthol currently show limited nuance. The densest and longest of these 2004s on the back end, where the wine's rich, sweet fruit nicely buffers the fine tannins. This needs time.

(there was a lot of hail here, as in the Chateau des Ducs) Good full red. Raspberry on the nose, complicated by herbs and pepper. Silky in texture but showing less flavor and personality today than the Caillerets. In fact, this is downright closed today, dominated by its mineral spine. Not an especially sweet style, but the tannins avoid dryness. I suspect this firmly structured wine will age well.