2006 Maison Nicolas Potel Chambertin Grand Cru

Classic rose petal and licorice – along with scents of dark berries and smoked meat – rise from the glass of Potel 2006 Chambertin, which comes to an almost bitter point of berry and herb concentration on its plush yet palpably chalky, extract-rich palate. This preserves the elegance and lift that are part of so many of the nest wines of its vintage, without sacrificing strength of flavor or structure. It finishes with ripe, refreshing, sappy fruit intensity, mineral invigoration, carnal mystery, and a shower of rose petals and should be well worth following for 12-15 years. Nicolas Potel consistently favors promoting ripeness at low potential alcohol and consistently eschews chaptalization. He is also a fan of freshness and clarity in Pinot, while maintaining notably low levels of sulfur. A vintage where a significant share of fruit came in near or above 14% potential alcohol and was shadowed by botrytis was thus a challenge, which seems to have been selectively well met. (For more on the style and methods associated with Maison Nicolas Potel – whose wines are sourced from a mixture of contract fruit and purchased juice – consult my report in issue 171.) Despite the huge number of 2006s I tasted here, incidentally, they did not represent the entire Potel vintage collection. In May, 2009, Potel left the negociant firm that bears his name (and which belongs to the Cottin brothers, owners of Laboure-Roi) to devote himself entirely to his own domaine and negociant operation, Maison Roche de Bellene, which crushed its first grapes with the 2007 vintage (in part from Potel holdings that were showcased in Maison Potel bottlings of vintages 2005 and 2006). Long-time cellarmaster Fabrice Lesne has now assumed direction of Maison Potel. By the way, suggested retail prices for the 2006s here took a sharp downturn vis-a-vis those for the 2005s, an occurrence worth noting for its rarity. (That said, of course the effective, eventual retail prices for all 2006s have turned on market factors that transcended cellar door prices, let alone the parameters envisioned by national importers). Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Good medium red. Explosive, wild aromas of black raspberry and smoked meat. At once suave and powerful, with a compellingly layered texture and great depth to its flavors of black fruits, game, pepper and earth. Wonderfully thick, powerfully structured wine with great back-end breadth and persistence. A powerful expression of soil, and built for a long life in bottle. The finish shows an intriguing suggestion of black olive.